Overview
Pterophyllum scalare comes from slow-moving, heavily vegetated backwaters and floodplain tributaries of the Amazon, Orinoco, and Essequibo basins — naturally tannin-stained, warm, and soft. The wild form is a subtly barred silver fish; the dozens of captive strains (marble, koi, veil, ghost, black lace) are all the same species with varying degrees of genetic modification behind them. Angelfish are cichlids, and they behave like it: territorial with conspecifics during spawning, capable of eating anything small enough to fit in their mouths, and sensitive enough to water changes that a single bad week of missed maintenance shows up as clamped fins or HITH within days. Given correct conditions, though, they’re among the most rewarding cichlids in the hobby — long-lived, intelligent, and genuinely responsive to their keeper.
Water Parameters
| Temperature | 26–30°C |
| pH | 6.0–7.5 |
| Hardness | 2–12 dGH |
| Ammonia / Nitrite | 0 ppm (non-negotiable) |
| Nitrate | Under 20 ppm |
| Flow | Low to moderate |
Wild-caught specimens are far more sensitive to hardness and pH than F3+ captive strains, which tolerate neutral, moderately hard tap water reasonably well. That said, breeding success almost always improves when you push pH below 7.0 and soften the water. Sri Lanka’s tap water in Colombo and the western province typically runs around 7.2–7.6 with moderate hardness — workable for fish-keeping, but RO blending helps if you’re serious about spawning them.
Tank Setup
Tank height matters more than footprint here. A 90cm tall tank suits adults far better than a standard 45cm-deep aquarium — compressed adults in short tanks develop spinal curvature over time. A 200L tank with at least 50cm water depth is the realistic minimum for a colony of four to six fish. Taller is better.
Angelfish calm down significantly in well-planted, heavily decorated tanks. Dense background planting with tall stem plants, a couple of driftwood pieces releasing tannins, and patches of floating cover reduce line-of-sight aggression dramatically. During spawning conditioning, pairs become territorial and will bully tankmates out of a wide radius around their chosen spawning site — have a plan for separation or a large enough footprint to distribute aggression. Substrate can be fine sand or small gravel; they don’t dig seriously but will root around soft substrate near spawning slates.
Diet & Feeding
Angelfish are opportunistic predators in the wild — invertebrates, small fish, and insect larvae make up a significant portion of their natural diet. In captivity, a quality cichlid pellet or large flake as a base, supplemented three to four times a week with frozen bloodworm, white mosquito larvae, or brine shrimp, produces the best colouration and conditioning. Live foods accelerate spawning behaviour noticeably. Any tankmate small enough to be swallowed — including neon tetras and small shrimp — will eventually be eaten, regardless of how long they’ve coexisted peacefully.
Breeding Notes
Pairs form naturally within a grow-out group. They’re substrate spawners, preferring vertical surfaces — broad Amazon sword leaves, slate tiles, or PVC pipe leaned against the glass all work. The pair cleans the site obsessively for a day or two before spawning. Egg batches typically run 200–400 eggs. Both parents guard eggs and wrigglers actively, and first-time pairs frequently eat the eggs; success rates improve significantly by the third or fourth spawn. Fry are free-swimming around day six to eight at 28°C and take freshly hatched brine shrimp nauplii immediately. If you leave fry with parents in a community tank, expect losses — a dedicated breeding tank or immediate removal of eggs to an artificial hatching setup is more reliable.
Tank Mates
Choose tankmates that are too large to be eaten and non-fin-nipping. Medium-sized tetras like rummy-nose or bleeding heart work well; smaller species like neons are a liability. Corydoras are excellent bottom companions and don’t compete for mid-water territory. Bolivian rams can share space without serious conflict. Avoid tiger barbs, serpae tetras, or any known fin-nippers — the angelfish’s flowing finnage is an irresistible target. Larger peaceful gouramis and discus are sometimes kept together, though discus require even warmer water (28–30°C) that sits at the upper end of the angelfish’s comfort range. Avoid small shrimp entirely.
Compatible Tank Mates
Species that pair well with Angelfish — linked where we've already covered them.
- Rummy-nose Tetra Hemigrammus rhodostomus
- Bleeding Heart Tetra Hyphessobrycon erythrostigma
- Sterbai Corydoras Corydoras sterbai
- Bolivian Ram Mikrogeophagus altispinosus
- Bristlenose Pleco Ancistrus cirrhosus
- Keyhole Cichlid Cleithracara maronii
- Discus Symphysodon aequifasciatus
- Lemon Tetra Hyphessobrycon pulchripinnis
Similar Fishes
Other species with comparable care, size, or role in a planted tank.
- Discus Symphysodon aequifasciatus
- Altum Angelfish Pterophyllum altum
- Festivum Cichlid Mesonauta festivus
- Uaru Cichlid Uaru amphiacanthoides
- Severum Heros efasciatus
- Pearl Gourami Trichopodus leerii
Compatible Plants
Plants that work well in a tank stocked with Angelfish.
- Amazon Sword Echinodorus grisebachii
- Vallisneria Vallisneria americana
- Java Fern Microsorum pteropus
- Anubias Anubias barteri
- Giant Hygrophila Hygrophila corymbosa
- Water Sprite Ceratopteris thalictroides
- Hornwort Ceratophyllum demersum
Recommended Hardscape
Stone, wood, and substrate that suit Angelfish's natural habitat and behavior.
- Spider Wood Spider Wood
- Mopani Wood Mopani Wood
- Malaysian Driftwood Malaysian Driftwood
- Fine Dark Sand Fine Dark Sand
- Catappa Leaves Catappa Leaves